Visit to the factory of Benaud producing De Moire on March 23, 2023. The process of Moire has been manufactured in Lyon by the Benaud family for the last 5 generations. The factory is now located just outside the city of Lyon.
Moire is known to be produced since the 17th century, and the pattern was originally produced by rubbing stones on the fabric. Today it is produced on machines with a patterned roller/cylinder. It is used on fine yarn with a high shine like polyester taft or velour. Twill and transparent fabric are not suitable for this process. Tabby weave and rib fabric weave are suitable fabrics. Often a shiny viscose is used for warp and cotton used as weft.
Two layers of fabric are pressed together and are rolled through two cylinders. Polyester fabric is treated with a temperature of 140 degree, and silk is treated with 240 degree. The temperature has to be monitored carefully, and moisture are needed to make the whole process work.
Velvet fabric are stamped and brushed with the cylinders. The prize of one cylinder is 16.000 Euro.
Moire pattern will disappear in wash. Therefore, these fabrics are best suited for home interior, where washing is not required so often.
